Last dogless walk: West River Trail, Brattleboro, Vermont

The West River, Brattleboro

Saturday, April 27. I've missed a week, due to a family visit to Virginia, and flew back to Boston Friday. Mike picked me up and we drove to Brattleboro, Vermont, to meet our new rescue dog from Georgia! More on her in another post.

After dinner with lots of wine, a night in the cool downtown Latchis Hotel, and breakfast at Putney, we went looking for fun things to do. A cup of cocoa each from Burdick's in NH put Mike close to seizure territory and had me feeling queasy. A hike on the West River Trail in Brattleboro was just the thing.

I-91 thunders over our heads

The trail is the old right of way for the West River Railroad of southern Vermont, which ran from 1880 to 1936. It was plagued by washouts, derailments, deaths, snowstorms, stranded passengers, and other troubles, leading a 1903 newspaper editorial to call it the "try-daily -- they go down in the morning and try to get back at night." The trail follows the West River, which joins the Connecticut River at Brattleboro.

The day was gorgeous and the trail super easy, which suited our hungover, chocolate-amped state. At one point the trail crosses under I-91, which is carried over the West River on two rusty green iron bridges, larger versions of the Ur-bridge that exists in every New England mill town.

Wood turtle

After about an hour we left the trail and scrambled onto a small island in the river. There we saw a pretty wood turtle napping in the sun. I didn't really know what it was; I had to send a picture to my friend Jane who knows all animals. Turns out she had one as a pet for a while as a kid. It's noted for the pyramidal markings on its upper shell.

We took a break and lay in the sun for a bit on the way back to the trailhead, and there I snapped this picture for posterity.

Happy hungover hiker

Hart Family Heritage Trail, Damariscotta

First section of boardwalk

This trail made up for yesterday's boardwalk deficit. The opening section of the Hart Family Heritage Trail features 870 feet of boardwalk curling around the edge of Great Salt Bay through eelgrass and mud. It was low tide this afternoon, so I'm not sure what this end of the cove looks like at high water.

We then passed into woods, across a small point, over a swamp bridge, and into more woods, following the shoreline of Great Salt Bay on the thumb of Glidden Point. Along the way we saw lots and lots of mussel shells nestled in the pine needles. It was puzzling, because the ground is far too soft for the shells to break... so we figured the birds are dropping the mussels elsewhere onto rock to break them open, then dining in the woods away from thieving competitors. It's a theory, anyway.

Rest area

There were near constant views of the bay, but since the afternoon was cold and grey, I didn't get good pictures of it. The trail was well-trod and easy to follow. Periodically it opened up into a park-like setting and even included a bench here and there.

Beer sled

There were less scenic moments, since the cove end is where parts of abandoned fishing shacks fetch up at winter's end. We saw lots of flotation foam, insulation material, torn up wood, and that most important piece of fishing gear: the beer sled.

The loop trail crosses under Route 1 through an old sheep tunnel, includes a spur to the shell middens, and then rejoins the Mills Road across from Louis Doe's Hardware. We turned back an hour out and retraced our steps, deciding to visit the middens another day. On the way back, Terrie and Polly had a dialog with two owls.

Following the shoreline of Great Salt Bay, the Hart Family Heritage Trail features access to the Indian shell heaps on Glidden Point. 2.7 miles, Damariscotta.

Dodge Point, Newcastle

Dodge Point

Dodge Point, or "Dog Point," as a friend of mine calls it, is a 500-acre peninsula with 8,000 feet of shoreline on the Damariscotta River. The preserve feels like it's been part of the community forever, but the parcel was only put together in 1989. The trails are used heavily by hikers, runners, and dog owners; when I pulled up at 4:15, I couldn't find space in the lot, and one of the parked vehicles was a school bus.

Brickyard Beach

Four of us joined up for this late afternoon hike. The light was low and golden, throwing long shadows. Terrie spotted what she thinks were surf scoters as well as a pair of loons and a pair of eiders. We were hoping to hear the loons call, but Susie ventured that since they were together already, they didn't need to call.

Dodge Point was the site of a brickmaking operation in the late 1800s, one of many yards on the river that supplied the bricks for Boston's Back Bay. The remains - blocks of red, pink, orange, blue and purple clay carpeting the beach and extending underwater - form a striking mosaic on Brickyard Beach. Terrie thought it would be fun to spend several hours making a giant spiral or some other artistic creation with the riot of colors.

With over 500 acres, Dodge Point offers more than 8,000 feet of frontage along the Damariscotta River and provides secluded pocket beaches and vistas for visitors as well as a diversified environment for many species of plants and animals. 6.1 miles, Newcastle.

Marsh River Bog, Newcastle

Something's missing here...

It's tough to hike through a bog if the front section of boardwalk is still piled up in the parking lot.

Instead we walked a loop trail through the woods at the Marsh River Bog Preserve. We had no idea where we were going, because (1) the DRA doesn't make downloadable trail maps available and (2) there was no kiosk at the entrance lot. No map, no place to sign in, no handouts. Maybe we've gotten spoiled, but maps seem like a fairly basic amenity in a preserve that's open to the public.

Trusting we would eventually find our way out, we plunged ahead and found the trail to be quite lovely. Wide and full of light, with varied terrain, and much more interesting than I had been led to believe by a fellow hiker. The warm, sunny morning already had us in a good mood; the pleasant 45-minute circuit through the woods just made it better.

We'd been warned that this site is extra-endowed with ticks. Despite our having checked each other afterwards, I found a tick crawling up my sleeve as I drove to Brunswick.

Today I learned: wear light-colored clothing and a hat.

The Marsh River Bog features three loop trails and a boardwalk that extends more than 150 feet into the bog, opening up to exploration a natural community that few visitors ever have a chance to see. 1 mile, Newcastle.

Marsh River Trails, Newcastle

Roxy investigates the marsh

I've driven Route 1 thousands of times between Damariscotta and Wiscasset never imagining what lay behind the trees on either side. I'm just that kind of girl.

Today we learned that the 3.9 mile Marsh River, which links the remains of Sherman Lake with the Sheepscot River, is a wild tidal estuary just west of the highway. It's an important refuge for wading and shore birds, though we didn't see any today. (And I'm sure the dog had nothing to do with it.) We were hiking the Marsh River Preserve, a 70 acre SVCA property with a mile-long trail winding through woods and along the river. It's beautiful, close to home, and highly recommended.

Turkey tail mushrooms

The SVCA has installed markers along the way calling attention to important details, information on which is included with the trail map. Susie served as our hiking dramaturge, providing interpretive readings as we gathered at each marker. Regina is the resident plant expert. Today she pointed out tiny teaberry leaves, a ground cover that smells like wintergreen and gave its name to Clark's Teaberry Gum, and turkey tail mushrooms growing on a log. 

Rattlesnake plantain

At one of the interpretive markers we all got a lesson on rattlesnake plantain, a tiny orchid with leaves marked like snakeskin. 

We were shocked on emerging from the woods to learn that the Boston Marathon had been marred by bombing, death, and injury. The beautiful day turned sad indeed.

The Marsh River Trails provide opportunities to explore the margins of the Marsh River and associated salt marshes. These easy trails take the visitor to scenic overlooks of the marsh. 0.9 miles, Newcastle.

Bass Falls Preserve, Alna

Bass Falls is another SVCA property, larger and better maintained than the Griggs Preserve we hiked last week. Today was my first time making it onto the actual trails; on two previous attempts, first Buster and then Toast were injured on the way in and we had to travois them back to the parking lot. Both needed ACL repair surgery, or whatever the equivalent is in dog anatomy. Both were about 9 years old at the time, so it would have been around 2006 and 2008. Weird.

Anyway, I was expecting a pleasant walk in the woods with Regina & Susie but was blown away by how lovely and majestic the trails were, sloping down to the river amid giant pines and oaks. The trails are wide and frequently marked so we didn't get lost this time. I still haven't mastered the simple act of bringing water along, but the hiking poles made it out of the car this time and were handy on the muddy slopes.

Famous outhouse

There is a plain fishing shack at river's edge, complemented by a three-hole outhouse with the remains of a masonic eye painted on the side. The trail guide is emphatic in noting the outhouse is "out of commission," whatever that means. We didn't pry.

As we approached the cabin Roxy got very spooked and gave it a wide berth going around. Perhaps some critter was living in the woodpile?

The Bass Falls Trails pass through field and forest down to and along the Sheepscot River. Of varying terrain, the trails offer a variety of habitats and opportunities to take shorter or longer walks. 2.5 miles, Alna.

Getting ready for paddle season

The Waterfront Recreation Director

Mike got the kayaks and SUP boards out yesterday afternoon. We sat and admired them, but the tide wasn't cooperating. There was nothing to do but drink margaritas and eat cheese doodles instead, in honor of the wonderful season ahead that will begin soon, soon, soon, we fervently hope.

Today it's raining and in the low 40s.

Ah well. Off to the pool for boring laps. First day (with wetsuits) for open-water swimming is usually Memorial Day weekend, but my triathlete friends are impervious to pain and often agitate to start sooner. Julie, if you're reading this, you know who I'm talking about, right?

Griggs Preserve, Newcastle

Another hike with Susie, this time the Griggs Preserve in Newcastle. You can tell it's mud season by the excitingly deep, swervy ruts on the road leading in... but the woods were mostly dry, save for a well-marked bog and two springs.

Snake!

It felt like spring! Warm sun and blue sky filtered through the trees. There were critters about; one indeterminate mammal near the Porcupine Den, and a few tiny snakes warming themselves in a sunny patch on the forest floor.

The Autobahn

Exhibiting poor leadership skills, I managed to lose the simple trail a few times, usually while talking. In my defense, the trail has grown over in a few places and some of the white blazes are worn off the trees. This is an SVCA property and I have no doubt they'll be tending to it in an orderly fashion soon.

It was a relief after our wanderings to see a stretch of straight, sunny path near the end. We called it The Autobahn.

The Griggs Preserve trails traverse mixed deciduous and coniferous forests along the tidal portion of the Sheepscot River with views across the railroad tracks to salt marshes. 1.5 miles.

Next hike: Bass Falls Trails, Alna, Wednesday, 2pm.

How can a half hour take so long? (Walk Playlist 2)

Answer: when the walk playlist is uninspiring. Some of these are good, but Keith Urban? Please. More cleanout of list feeder files needed. This was a morning fitness walk about town:

Horrible walk today, horrible (Walk Playlist 1)

Horrible walk in howling wind today, for fitness. Which I said this wasn't about. Well, I was moving and it was outside.... Did I mention howling wind? And for dumbness (which this is about), I didn't wear a hat. Also it was raining.

Here's my walking playlist. I had trouble with that, too. It ran about 26 minutes, not counting all the false starts and horrible songs that didn't work. So I estimate it took me 30 minutes to walk to the end of Glidden Street and back home. Whereupon I discovered my face was frozen.

But now I get to sit in front of the fire with tea & Sunday Times, so all is well.

Hidden Valley Nature Center, Jefferson

Volunteers sampling sphagnum moss
(Bangor Daily News photo)

We've been members & supporters for two years, are friends with everyone involved, and have been meaning to go there a thousand times. We even have trekking poles emblazoned with its name. Today, we finally made it to Hidden Valley Nature Center in Jefferson. It was amazing and we're kicking ourselves for having waited so long.

There are 25 miles of trails on 800 acres of private land. Incredible effort and generosity has gone into clearing trails, building kiosks, huts, and boardwalks, labeling trees, and making hikers and skiers feel welcome. We are very grateful. Thank you, Bambi & Tracy & Gary & all associated!

As evidence that this is, indeed, a blog for outdoor dummies: We left our water and trekking poles in the car. So when we encountered steep terrain, we had to scavenge the deadfall for strong branches to support my wobbly knees and Mike's tender feet.

We ran into two sets of friends camping with their children in a large yurt atop a granite outcropping. From them we freeloaded a Shipyard Ale that they had painstakingly lugged in along with all their gear and up the steep hill. Thanks, Peter & Becky!

In all we hiked about three hours and came home happy and happily tired.

Easy hikes close to home (running list)

More easy hikes around home, from the excellent Maine Trail Finder. This is a running list of trails I want to visit; periodically I'll add new locations and remove ones I have already hiked.

• Glidden Point loop. Several trail loops feature a salt marsh, a restored fresh water wetland, a chestnut grove, and views along Great Salt Bay. 2.7 miles, Newcastle.
• Whaleback Shell Middens. This half mile interpretive trail takes visitors on a short hike along the shore of the Damariscotta River where historic shell mounds created by native people over a thousand year period can still be seen. 0.5 miles, Damariscotta
• The Stetser Preserve Trails meander through mixed deciduous / coniferous forests with small seeps and streams, and a variety of wildlife habitats. There are stone walls and old skidder trails providing clues to past land use. 1 mile, Jefferson.
• The two loop trails at Trout Brook Preserve provide hikers with views along the Brook and into the uplands.  Good birding opportunities are provided by the mix of habitats along both trails. 1.6 miles, Alna.
• Huston Landing. This close to town property offers foot access to the Damariscotta River and rewarding views of the water. 0.4 miles, Damariscotta.
• Springs, stone walls, and gravel pits attest to layers of human habitation and use over the centuries on Walpole Preserve. Newcastle.
• The Bearce-Allen Interpretive Trail includes 21different interpretive stations along an easy 1.1 mile loop. Learn about forest succession, tree indentification, and how to look for signs of animals. 1.1 miles, Bristol.
• The two loop trails at Trout Brook Preserve provide hikers with views along the brook and into the uplands. Good birding opportunities are provided by the mix of habitats along both trails. 1.6 miles, Alna.
• Ovens Mouth Preserve. This extensive network of trails spread over two of three peninsulas at Ovens Mouth is split east and west by an inlet and joined by a bridge. It allows access and exploration of scenic shoreline, swift tidal water, quiet coves, and salt marshes. 5.3 miles, Boothbay.

Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island

Wednesday, April 3, 3pm. My first outing with wonderful Susie. We had exactly one hour, so we went 30 minutes out, turned around in the middle of a bridge, and came 30 minutes back. We talked all the way - the soul-nourishing kind of talk - but had the presence of mind to also note the beautiful scenery.

These trails on Westport Island highlight the Sasanoa River Estuary, tidal inlets, mixed old-growth woods, and freshwater marshes. 1.7 miles, Westport Island.

First day home: Great Salt Bay

Sunday, March 31, 1pm. After 12,000 miles of driving and three months away from home, where else to celebrate a return to Maine but a hike at the Damariscotta River Association's beautiful Great Salt Bay Farm?

Several trail loops feature a salt marsh, a restored fresh water wetland, a chestnut grove, and views along Great Salt Bay. 2.8 miles, Damariscotta.

The weather was cold but beautiful and sunny. I went with Regina, Terrie, and Roxy the (illegal) dog.