Tracy Arm-Ford's Terror Wilderness, AK

Tracy Arm

[Sept. 2, 2013] Glacier Day! Today we motored up Tracy Arm, a narrow fjord more than 30 miles long, one-fifth of which is covered with ice. It's part of the fabulously named Tracy Arm-Ford's Terror Wilderness, and lies about 45 miles south of Juneau. (Fun fact: the capital of Alaska is not accessible by road.) The plan was to see the South Sawyer Glacier, then kayak partway back down the fjord.

Glacier-scarred walls

The first indication we were headed for glacier territory was the chunky, floating ice known as "bergy bits." Some were small enough to fit in your hand (or ice bucket) and some were monsters the size of three-story buildings, complete with embedded rocks. As we all know, only the top 10 percent of floating ice is visible. The captain steered carefully.

Meltwater with bergy bit

Next we noted that the rock walls show signs of massive scarring.

Then the sea changed color from the flow of glacial meltwater, full of "rock flour," or ground granite, which when suspended in water scatters the sunlight and turns it a milky turquoise. It's beautiful.

Narrow passage

A sharp-eyed passenger (not me) spotted a mountain goat high up a ridiculously steep slope. We passed plunging waterfalls, and the fjord is so steep that the captain could bring the boat right up to the rockface so that we were in the spray.

We passed a hanging glacier - one that doesn't meet the water - on the right, and another on the left. The canyon walls began to close in.

[To be continued]

Cleveland Passage, AK

Exiting Sikumi, minus dignity

[Sept. 1, 2013] Today, after a morning of fishing off Cape Fanshaw, we anchored in Cleveland Passage and climbed into kayaks - laboriously, off an inflatable dock, and with a lot of help. When you're bundled up in rain fowlies and lifevest, it's nearly impossible to bend in the middle. We had to be rolled into our vessels like sausages into a pan.

Floating over a salmon graveyard

Cleveland Passage is a sound about two miles long tucked between Whitney Island and the Alaskan mainland just northeast of Cape Fanshaw. It's a beautiful, protected place to kayak: lots of bald eagles, seals, and a salmon stream on the mainland.

Once situated in our tippy boats we headed to the stream. At its mouth, fanning out like alluvial deposits, were hundreds of dead salmon lying in mere inches of water. We were directly atop them. It was a little eerie. These were pink salmon who had completed their short life cycle of two years, returned home, spawned, and died. Coho and king salmon live longer than pinks, from three to seven years. We learned that pink salmon are not considered good eating in Alaska; they're used for canning (i.e., to feed us in the lower 48) and for bait.

Pink salmon swimming upstream 

Inside the stream we could see the fish straining forward and occasionally leaping. Three of our party went ashore to take closer pictures. "Watch out for bears," said Mike M.

Sea lion possibly attacked by orca

Further down the beach we came upon a dead sea lion with an orca-sized bite taken out of it. Our theory is that it got away and swam ashore to die. Ashlee, who enters medical school this fall, went ashore to do a post mortem.

Heading south, Cleveland Passage

Everywhere we looked there were bald eagles, both mature and juvenile. They were perched in trees, flying overhead, chasing each other, and crying out.

Don't watch

We continued south, paddling against the incoming tide. The waterscape was liquid pewter. The palette in Alaska, at least the part we saw during September, was almost entirely shades of blue and silver, with accents of dark green and mustard.

Then it was back to the boat, where we learned that getting out of the kayak onto the floating dock was possibly even more undignified than getting in.

And then it was time to head north to Windham Bay, where we were to anchor for the night. On the way the captain called us all on deck to watch humpback whales. When we finished watching them, and looked at the water behind us, it looked like this:

Late afternoon, Stephens Passage

At Windham Bay we set crab and shrimp pots, which we'll return to haul in two days. And then it was off for one of those glacier drinks.

Setting crab pots in Windham Bay

Cascade Creek Trail, Tongass National Forest, AK

It's been a busy summer with lots of visitors and plenty of swimming, dog walks, kayaking, standup paddling, and sailing. But no hikes and no exploring. Too hot, too buggy.

Alaska State footwear

At summer's end we addressed this deficit by taking the trip of a lifetime, to Alaska! There we cruised part of the Inside Passage in a small expedition vessel and visited friends and family in Anchorage and Homer. Most of the trip was too sybaritic to qualify for this blog, but we did manage to fit in some hiking and kayaking. This post covers our first Alaska hike.

Petersburg to
Cascade Creek

[Aug. 31, 2013] The afternoon of our first day out of Petersburg, M/V Sikumi took us to Thomas Bay, where the crew dinghied us ashore to Cascade Creek. The site is part of Tongass National Forest, a 17 million acre national park and the world's largest remaining temperate rain forest. There's a 4.2 mile trail, part improved and part very rough, that winds from a gravel beach up a hill and over a glacier-fed cascade to Falls Lake and

I don't know what this is, but it's damp.

then the western end of Swan Lake. In our borrowed Xtratuf boots - the state footwear of Alaska - we tromped through just a small portion of the trail, maybe half a mile, before it became too steep, slippery, and difficult for us flatlanders.

We hiked slowly because there was so much to see. Temperate rain forests like Tongass occur on the west-facing slopes of coastal mountains along the Pacific, from northern California up to Kodiak Island. They are boggy and foggy, mostly coniferous, with extravagant growth despite thin soil. In our patch of woods there were tons of giant skunk cabbage, blueberries, huckleberries, salmonberry, soggy "nursery logs" (fallen trees which serve as a growth medium for new trees), mushrooms, and ferns. Red cedar, sitka spruce, and western hemlock were the predominant trees. We saw tiny flowers in bright colors, but you had to look carefully. I didn't notice any of these:

Luckily we had good photographers in our group: Mary and especially Cheryl. They had sharp eyes, took most of these photos, and for them I am thankful.

Also I am thankful for Mike M., our leader and the mate of Sikumi, who wore a large gun on his belt and kept an eye out for brown bears, which is what grizzlies are called when they live on the coast. Brown bears love salmon and berries. Also they are very large and have horrific claws and teeth. Later when we caught up with Mike's son the reporter, he told us of the steady diet of bear-maulings he gets to write about.

Staying close to the guy
with the gun

The first portion of the hike was easy, spongy trail. Then it switched to a magical staircase up the hill. Who maintains these things in the middle of nowhere?

Cascade Creek

Then we came to a clearing with a good view of the cascade, climbed higher with considerably more difficulty, crossed a bridge over the frothing water and looked down into the abyss, climbed a bit further, gave up, climbed carefully down, and dinghied back home to cocktails made with glacier ice.

Boat Sweet Boat

Been kayaking

Been kayaking four or five times since I last posted about hiking.

Also have been on many, many hikes, but all of them were local, and all of them dog-oriented. More on that another time. This new dog business is kicking our behinds.

Meanwhile, kayaking with a phone is undoubtedly a bad idea but it's lots of fun. Here's a kayak's-eye view of Damariscotta harbor at 1pm today.

24 weeks of kayaking: the Pemaquid Paddlers schedule

From the supremely organized & generous John Will of Pemaquid Paddlers:

All trips will leave the put-in point at 9:00 A.M. and will last 2-3 hours. The trips are easy to moderate in difficulty. Participants must provide their own canoe or kayak and wear a life jacket. All trips are free and open to the public and will be held rain or shine. 

Tuesday, May 21: Duck Puddle Pond. Put-in is off of Bremen Road (a.k.a. Nobleboro Rd.) at the outlet of Duck Puddle Pond. From Damariscotta take Route 1 north, 4.7 miles and turn right onto Winslow Hill Road, travel 0.2 miles to Duckpuddle Road and then travel 1.2 miles to Bremen Road, after going 0.3 miles there is a small parking lot on the right or you can park along the side of the road. From Bremen, access Nobleboro Rd., opposite the Bremen Town Offices and library on Route 32 and travel 3.4 miles to the put-in site.

Tuesday, May 28: Damariscotta River. The put-in is at the Damariscotta Town Landing off of the municipal parking lot in downtown Damariscotta.

Tuesday, June 4: Boothbay Harbor area. We will put-in at the Knickercane put-in site. Take Route 27 south from Route 1 towards Boothbay for 9.6 miles to the monument in Boothbay, turn right. Go to the 4-way stop and go straight, where the road comes to a "Y" go to the right. You can also follow the signs to the Botanical Gardens and just continue past it until you come to a bridge. Just after crossing the bridge the parking lot is on your left. We will paddle the Back River.

Tuesday, June 11: Medomak River, Waldoboro Town Landing. The put-in point is on the western side of the river, across from downtown Waldoboro. The put-in site can be reached from Route 32 or Route 1 by Maine Street in Waldoboro to Pine Street to the town landing.

Tuesday, June 18: Seven Tree Pond. To reach the put-in site, take Route 1 north past Waldoboro to Route 235 (Union Road). Travel 8.3 miles from Route 1, the public boat launch is on your right just after crossing a bridge. Bring a picnic lunch for after the paddle.

Tuesday, June 25: Biscay Pond to Pemaquid Pond. Put-in is at Biscay Beach off of Biscay Road. Take Biscay Road at the Damariscotta traffic light, by McDonald’s, the beach is on the right when you see the pond. We will soon leave Biscay Pond and travel under the bridge and into the connecting stream and into Pemaquid Pond and paddle north into the pond.

Tuesday, July 2: Boothbay Harbor area. We will put-in at Knickercane and soon paddle through a culvert and out into the Sheepscot River. See June 4 for directions to the put-in site.

Tuesday, July 9: Pemaquid River from Bristol Mills to Biscay Pond. Put-in is at the Bristol Mills boat launch on Route 130 (Bristol Road), approximately 5.5 miles south of Damariscotta.

Tuesday, July 16: Sheepscot River and the east side of Westport Island. Put-in is the Wiscasset Town Landing at the end of Water Street.

Tuesday, July 23: Johns Bay and the West Branch of the Johns River. Put-in at the Colonial Pemaquid boat launch. From Damariscotta, take Route 130 (Bristol Rd), approximately 11 miles, turn right onto Huddle Road. Follow Huddle Rd. until it ends, turn right and follow the signs to the Colonial Pemaquid boat launch site, past the fort and down the hill.

Tuesday, July 30: Damariscotta Lake. Put-in is at the public boat launch off of Route 213, two miles from the intersection of Route 213 and 215. We will paddle to the right towards the fish ladder in Damariscotta Mills.

Tuesday, August 6: Broad Cove. Put-in is at the end of Storer Road, Bremen, off of Route 32, 3.4 miles north of Biscay Rd or 0.3 miles north of Turner Road or 0.2 miles south of the Bremen Town Offices. The street sign is hard to see coming from the town offices, on the corner of Storer Rd. there is a house with a fence along Route 32.

Tuesday, August 13: Damariscotta Lake. See July 30 for directions to the put-in site. On this paddle we will paddle to the left of the put-in site, towards the center of the lake.

Tuesday, August 20: Boothbay Harbor area. See June 4 for driving directions to the put-in site. On this trip we will paddle onto the Sheepscot River and around the Isle of Springs. Bring a picnic lunch for after the paddle.

Tuesday, August 27: Pemaquid Pond. We will paddle the northern end of the pond. The put-in is the Nobleboro Boat Launch which is off of Route 1, 4.2 miles north of Damariscotta. Look for the ballfield along Route 1.

Tuesday, September 3: Muscongus Bay. We will paddle towards Waldoboro. Put-in is off of Dutch Neck Rd. Take Route 32 to Dutch Neck Road, travel 2.8 miles. Look for a weathered wooden sign, about 6 feet off the ground on the left which reads "Boat Landing". Turn left and go 0.2 miles to the parking area.

Tuesday, September 10: Seven Tree Pond and into Road Pond and up the stream behind the union Fair Grounds. See June 18 for driving directions to the put-in site. Bring a picnic lunch for after the paddle.

Tuesday, September 17: Sheepscot River, we will paddle up the river under the Route 1 bridge and continue up past the railroad bridge. See July 16 for driving directions to the put-in site.

Tuesday, September 24: Clary Lake. Put-in, from Newcastle, take Route 215 north for 14.3 miles, shortly after passing Route 126 you will see the state public put-in site on your left. We will paddle to the old mill at the far end of the lake.

Tuesday, October 1: St George River, Thomaston. At the traffic light in Thomaston, turn right on Knox Rd., if you are coming from the south and if you are coming from the north turn left at the light. Go 0.5 miles, when you reach the Lymon-Morse shipyard (do not go in to the shipyard) angle to the right on the paved road for about 25 yards. You will soon see the state put-in on your left. Bring a picnic lunch for after the paddle.

Tuesday, October 8: Damariscotta Lake, Vannah Rd. To reach the put-in site, take Route 1 north from Damariscotta to Vannah Rd., which is at the intersection by the fire station and power sports store. Travel 1.1 miles to the put-in site, located after the railroad tracks. Park along the side of the road, the ramp is near the center of the causeway.

Tuesday, October 15: Muscongus Bay. See September 3 for driving directions. On this trip we will paddle down the bay towards Broad Cove.

Tuesday, October 22: Biscay Pond. See June 25 for driving directions. On this trip we will stay on the pond and paddle to where the Pemaquid River starts.

Tuesday, October 29: Round Pond Harbor and Muscongus Bay. Take Route 32 to Round Pond and follow the signs in the center of town to the public landing. There is a $2.00 put-in fee.

John F. Will

22 Fieldcrest Lane

Pemaquid ME  04558-4215

(207) 677-6380

jwill123@roadrunner.com

Last dogless walk: West River Trail, Brattleboro, Vermont

The West River, Brattleboro

Saturday, April 27. I've missed a week, due to a family visit to Virginia, and flew back to Boston Friday. Mike picked me up and we drove to Brattleboro, Vermont, to meet our new rescue dog from Georgia! More on her in another post.

After dinner with lots of wine, a night in the cool downtown Latchis Hotel, and breakfast at Putney, we went looking for fun things to do. A cup of cocoa each from Burdick's in NH put Mike close to seizure territory and had me feeling queasy. A hike on the West River Trail in Brattleboro was just the thing.

I-91 thunders over our heads

The trail is the old right of way for the West River Railroad of southern Vermont, which ran from 1880 to 1936. It was plagued by washouts, derailments, deaths, snowstorms, stranded passengers, and other troubles, leading a 1903 newspaper editorial to call it the "try-daily -- they go down in the morning and try to get back at night." The trail follows the West River, which joins the Connecticut River at Brattleboro.

The day was gorgeous and the trail super easy, which suited our hungover, chocolate-amped state. At one point the trail crosses under I-91, which is carried over the West River on two rusty green iron bridges, larger versions of the Ur-bridge that exists in every New England mill town.

Wood turtle

After about an hour we left the trail and scrambled onto a small island in the river. There we saw a pretty wood turtle napping in the sun. I didn't really know what it was; I had to send a picture to my friend Jane who knows all animals. Turns out she had one as a pet for a while as a kid. It's noted for the pyramidal markings on its upper shell.

We took a break and lay in the sun for a bit on the way back to the trailhead, and there I snapped this picture for posterity.

Happy hungover hiker

Hart Family Heritage Trail, Damariscotta

First section of boardwalk

This trail made up for yesterday's boardwalk deficit. The opening section of the Hart Family Heritage Trail features 870 feet of boardwalk curling around the edge of Great Salt Bay through eelgrass and mud. It was low tide this afternoon, so I'm not sure what this end of the cove looks like at high water.

We then passed into woods, across a small point, over a swamp bridge, and into more woods, following the shoreline of Great Salt Bay on the thumb of Glidden Point. Along the way we saw lots and lots of mussel shells nestled in the pine needles. It was puzzling, because the ground is far too soft for the shells to break... so we figured the birds are dropping the mussels elsewhere onto rock to break them open, then dining in the woods away from thieving competitors. It's a theory, anyway.

Rest area

There were near constant views of the bay, but since the afternoon was cold and grey, I didn't get good pictures of it. The trail was well-trod and easy to follow. Periodically it opened up into a park-like setting and even included a bench here and there.

Beer sled

There were less scenic moments, since the cove end is where parts of abandoned fishing shacks fetch up at winter's end. We saw lots of flotation foam, insulation material, torn up wood, and that most important piece of fishing gear: the beer sled.

The loop trail crosses under Route 1 through an old sheep tunnel, includes a spur to the shell middens, and then rejoins the Mills Road across from Louis Doe's Hardware. We turned back an hour out and retraced our steps, deciding to visit the middens another day. On the way back, Terrie and Polly had a dialog with two owls.

Following the shoreline of Great Salt Bay, the Hart Family Heritage Trail features access to the Indian shell heaps on Glidden Point. 2.7 miles, Damariscotta.

Dodge Point, Newcastle

Dodge Point

Dodge Point, or "Dog Point," as a friend of mine calls it, is a 500-acre peninsula with 8,000 feet of shoreline on the Damariscotta River. The preserve feels like it's been part of the community forever, but the parcel was only put together in 1989. The trails are used heavily by hikers, runners, and dog owners; when I pulled up at 4:15, I couldn't find space in the lot, and one of the parked vehicles was a school bus.

Brickyard Beach

Four of us joined up for this late afternoon hike. The light was low and golden, throwing long shadows. Terrie spotted what she thinks were surf scoters as well as a pair of loons and a pair of eiders. We were hoping to hear the loons call, but Susie ventured that since they were together already, they didn't need to call.

Dodge Point was the site of a brickmaking operation in the late 1800s, one of many yards on the river that supplied the bricks for Boston's Back Bay. The remains - blocks of red, pink, orange, blue and purple clay carpeting the beach and extending underwater - form a striking mosaic on Brickyard Beach. Terrie thought it would be fun to spend several hours making a giant spiral or some other artistic creation with the riot of colors.

With over 500 acres, Dodge Point offers more than 8,000 feet of frontage along the Damariscotta River and provides secluded pocket beaches and vistas for visitors as well as a diversified environment for many species of plants and animals. 6.1 miles, Newcastle.

Marsh River Bog, Newcastle

Something's missing here...

It's tough to hike through a bog if the front section of boardwalk is still piled up in the parking lot.

Instead we walked a loop trail through the woods at the Marsh River Bog Preserve. We had no idea where we were going, because (1) the DRA doesn't make downloadable trail maps available and (2) there was no kiosk at the entrance lot. No map, no place to sign in, no handouts. Maybe we've gotten spoiled, but maps seem like a fairly basic amenity in a preserve that's open to the public.

Trusting we would eventually find our way out, we plunged ahead and found the trail to be quite lovely. Wide and full of light, with varied terrain, and much more interesting than I had been led to believe by a fellow hiker. The warm, sunny morning already had us in a good mood; the pleasant 45-minute circuit through the woods just made it better.

We'd been warned that this site is extra-endowed with ticks. Despite our having checked each other afterwards, I found a tick crawling up my sleeve as I drove to Brunswick.

Today I learned: wear light-colored clothing and a hat.

The Marsh River Bog features three loop trails and a boardwalk that extends more than 150 feet into the bog, opening up to exploration a natural community that few visitors ever have a chance to see. 1 mile, Newcastle.

Marsh River Trails, Newcastle

Roxy investigates the marsh

I've driven Route 1 thousands of times between Damariscotta and Wiscasset never imagining what lay behind the trees on either side. I'm just that kind of girl.

Today we learned that the 3.9 mile Marsh River, which links the remains of Sherman Lake with the Sheepscot River, is a wild tidal estuary just west of the highway. It's an important refuge for wading and shore birds, though we didn't see any today. (And I'm sure the dog had nothing to do with it.) We were hiking the Marsh River Preserve, a 70 acre SVCA property with a mile-long trail winding through woods and along the river. It's beautiful, close to home, and highly recommended.

Turkey tail mushrooms

The SVCA has installed markers along the way calling attention to important details, information on which is included with the trail map. Susie served as our hiking dramaturge, providing interpretive readings as we gathered at each marker. Regina is the resident plant expert. Today she pointed out tiny teaberry leaves, a ground cover that smells like wintergreen and gave its name to Clark's Teaberry Gum, and turkey tail mushrooms growing on a log. 

Rattlesnake plantain

At one of the interpretive markers we all got a lesson on rattlesnake plantain, a tiny orchid with leaves marked like snakeskin. 

We were shocked on emerging from the woods to learn that the Boston Marathon had been marred by bombing, death, and injury. The beautiful day turned sad indeed.

The Marsh River Trails provide opportunities to explore the margins of the Marsh River and associated salt marshes. These easy trails take the visitor to scenic overlooks of the marsh. 0.9 miles, Newcastle.

Bass Falls Preserve, Alna

Bass Falls is another SVCA property, larger and better maintained than the Griggs Preserve we hiked last week. Today was my first time making it onto the actual trails; on two previous attempts, first Buster and then Toast were injured on the way in and we had to travois them back to the parking lot. Both needed ACL repair surgery, or whatever the equivalent is in dog anatomy. Both were about 9 years old at the time, so it would have been around 2006 and 2008. Weird.

Anyway, I was expecting a pleasant walk in the woods with Regina & Susie but was blown away by how lovely and majestic the trails were, sloping down to the river amid giant pines and oaks. The trails are wide and frequently marked so we didn't get lost this time. I still haven't mastered the simple act of bringing water along, but the hiking poles made it out of the car this time and were handy on the muddy slopes.

Famous outhouse

There is a plain fishing shack at river's edge, complemented by a three-hole outhouse with the remains of a masonic eye painted on the side. The trail guide is emphatic in noting the outhouse is "out of commission," whatever that means. We didn't pry.

As we approached the cabin Roxy got very spooked and gave it a wide berth going around. Perhaps some critter was living in the woodpile?

The Bass Falls Trails pass through field and forest down to and along the Sheepscot River. Of varying terrain, the trails offer a variety of habitats and opportunities to take shorter or longer walks. 2.5 miles, Alna.

Getting ready for paddle season

The Waterfront Recreation Director

Mike got the kayaks and SUP boards out yesterday afternoon. We sat and admired them, but the tide wasn't cooperating. There was nothing to do but drink margaritas and eat cheese doodles instead, in honor of the wonderful season ahead that will begin soon, soon, soon, we fervently hope.

Today it's raining and in the low 40s.

Ah well. Off to the pool for boring laps. First day (with wetsuits) for open-water swimming is usually Memorial Day weekend, but my triathlete friends are impervious to pain and often agitate to start sooner. Julie, if you're reading this, you know who I'm talking about, right?

Griggs Preserve, Newcastle

Another hike with Susie, this time the Griggs Preserve in Newcastle. You can tell it's mud season by the excitingly deep, swervy ruts on the road leading in... but the woods were mostly dry, save for a well-marked bog and two springs.

Snake!

It felt like spring! Warm sun and blue sky filtered through the trees. There were critters about; one indeterminate mammal near the Porcupine Den, and a few tiny snakes warming themselves in a sunny patch on the forest floor.

The Autobahn

Exhibiting poor leadership skills, I managed to lose the simple trail a few times, usually while talking. In my defense, the trail has grown over in a few places and some of the white blazes are worn off the trees. This is an SVCA property and I have no doubt they'll be tending to it in an orderly fashion soon.

It was a relief after our wanderings to see a stretch of straight, sunny path near the end. We called it The Autobahn.

The Griggs Preserve trails traverse mixed deciduous and coniferous forests along the tidal portion of the Sheepscot River with views across the railroad tracks to salt marshes. 1.5 miles.

Next hike: Bass Falls Trails, Alna, Wednesday, 2pm.

How can a half hour take so long? (Walk Playlist 2)

Answer: when the walk playlist is uninspiring. Some of these are good, but Keith Urban? Please. More cleanout of list feeder files needed. This was a morning fitness walk about town:

Horrible walk today, horrible (Walk Playlist 1)

Horrible walk in howling wind today, for fitness. Which I said this wasn't about. Well, I was moving and it was outside.... Did I mention howling wind? And for dumbness (which this is about), I didn't wear a hat. Also it was raining.

Here's my walking playlist. I had trouble with that, too. It ran about 26 minutes, not counting all the false starts and horrible songs that didn't work. So I estimate it took me 30 minutes to walk to the end of Glidden Street and back home. Whereupon I discovered my face was frozen.

But now I get to sit in front of the fire with tea & Sunday Times, so all is well.

Hidden Valley Nature Center, Jefferson

Volunteers sampling sphagnum moss
(Bangor Daily News photo)

We've been members & supporters for two years, are friends with everyone involved, and have been meaning to go there a thousand times. We even have trekking poles emblazoned with its name. Today, we finally made it to Hidden Valley Nature Center in Jefferson. It was amazing and we're kicking ourselves for having waited so long.

There are 25 miles of trails on 800 acres of private land. Incredible effort and generosity has gone into clearing trails, building kiosks, huts, and boardwalks, labeling trees, and making hikers and skiers feel welcome. We are very grateful. Thank you, Bambi & Tracy & Gary & all associated!

As evidence that this is, indeed, a blog for outdoor dummies: We left our water and trekking poles in the car. So when we encountered steep terrain, we had to scavenge the deadfall for strong branches to support my wobbly knees and Mike's tender feet.

We ran into two sets of friends camping with their children in a large yurt atop a granite outcropping. From them we freeloaded a Shipyard Ale that they had painstakingly lugged in along with all their gear and up the steep hill. Thanks, Peter & Becky!

In all we hiked about three hours and came home happy and happily tired.

Easy hikes close to home (running list)

More easy hikes around home, from the excellent Maine Trail Finder. This is a running list of trails I want to visit; periodically I'll add new locations and remove ones I have already hiked.

• Glidden Point loop. Several trail loops feature a salt marsh, a restored fresh water wetland, a chestnut grove, and views along Great Salt Bay. 2.7 miles, Newcastle.
• Whaleback Shell Middens. This half mile interpretive trail takes visitors on a short hike along the shore of the Damariscotta River where historic shell mounds created by native people over a thousand year period can still be seen. 0.5 miles, Damariscotta
• The Stetser Preserve Trails meander through mixed deciduous / coniferous forests with small seeps and streams, and a variety of wildlife habitats. There are stone walls and old skidder trails providing clues to past land use. 1 mile, Jefferson.
• The two loop trails at Trout Brook Preserve provide hikers with views along the Brook and into the uplands.  Good birding opportunities are provided by the mix of habitats along both trails. 1.6 miles, Alna.
• Huston Landing. This close to town property offers foot access to the Damariscotta River and rewarding views of the water. 0.4 miles, Damariscotta.
• Springs, stone walls, and gravel pits attest to layers of human habitation and use over the centuries on Walpole Preserve. Newcastle.
• The Bearce-Allen Interpretive Trail includes 21different interpretive stations along an easy 1.1 mile loop. Learn about forest succession, tree indentification, and how to look for signs of animals. 1.1 miles, Bristol.
• The two loop trails at Trout Brook Preserve provide hikers with views along the brook and into the uplands. Good birding opportunities are provided by the mix of habitats along both trails. 1.6 miles, Alna.
• Ovens Mouth Preserve. This extensive network of trails spread over two of three peninsulas at Ovens Mouth is split east and west by an inlet and joined by a bridge. It allows access and exploration of scenic shoreline, swift tidal water, quiet coves, and salt marshes. 5.3 miles, Boothbay.

Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island

Wednesday, April 3, 3pm. My first outing with wonderful Susie. We had exactly one hour, so we went 30 minutes out, turned around in the middle of a bridge, and came 30 minutes back. We talked all the way - the soul-nourishing kind of talk - but had the presence of mind to also note the beautiful scenery.

These trails on Westport Island highlight the Sasanoa River Estuary, tidal inlets, mixed old-growth woods, and freshwater marshes. 1.7 miles, Westport Island.

First day home: Great Salt Bay

Sunday, March 31, 1pm. After 12,000 miles of driving and three months away from home, where else to celebrate a return to Maine but a hike at the Damariscotta River Association's beautiful Great Salt Bay Farm?

Several trail loops feature a salt marsh, a restored fresh water wetland, a chestnut grove, and views along Great Salt Bay. 2.8 miles, Damariscotta.

The weather was cold but beautiful and sunny. I went with Regina, Terrie, and Roxy the (illegal) dog.